November 2019

A day trip from our campsite at Red Top Mountain State Park brought us to The Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. Late November is off-season for visitors; the park was quietly gearing up for its holiday display of lighted snowmen and angels. This quiet, uncrowded time was perfect for us. We hiked a trail, took in the view from a tower high above Spanish-moss draped trees, and enjoyed the guided boat tour along the stream leading to the Suwanee River.

Our guide Tommy, who described himself as having been “raised up in the swamp,” offered colorful insights and stories of swamp history and inhabitants. At 438,000 acres, the Okefenokee is the largest blackwater swamp in North America. In earlier times, hardy souls could boat all the way to the Gulf of Mexico. (Tommy did.) Today, to preserve this valuable habitat, access to the swamp’s interior waterways is limited and requires special permits.

Our boat slipped along waters that were potable and clear, but stained dark tea brown from plant and peat tannins. Although the only sounds we heard were from the birds, we knew that the woods were full of large and small creatures. We saw a few small alligators sunning themselves, but were assured that the big guys were cooling their heels until the weather warmed above 70 degrees. Fine by me. Keep a safe distance between the boat and things that look upon me as a warm lunch…

One of the more curious plants we saw along the river was the carnivorous pitcher plant, Sarracenia flava. Naturalist William Bartram observed and cataloged these plants during his explorations in the 1760s. Insects are drawn to the plant and unwittingly tumble down the one-way street of its flower, falling into its digestive juices. In lean times, very hungry travelers were known to crack open the stem of the blossoms and eat the insects trapped there. “Pure protein,” Tommy pointed out. For me, I hope I never have hunger beyond what the stale granola bar in my purse can handle.

Sidebar note: In case you were wondering, yes, this is the same “Swanee River” that Stephen Foster wrote about in the song “Old Folks at Home,” although I was told that he never actually saw it. Its lyrics were revised to be more politically correct; it’s the state song of Florida.