June – July 2023

Crater Lake

We visited Crater Lake on June 20th, one day before the offical start of summer. Surprise! We arrived to find a fresh dusting of snow and frosty temperatures to match.

A clear, bright blue sky made the water look dark navy blue. Crater is the deepest and purest lake in the U.S. This mountaintop lake was once a volcano. An eruption 7,700 years ago created the crater and set the stage for this 2,000 foot deep lake. We put on jackets and hats to explore – clothing that felt unseasonal for late June.

California Redwoods

Just twenty-four hours later, we were 6,000 feet lower in elevation, at sea level on the Pacific coast.

We had traveled a diagonal route southwest across Oregon to dip a toe into Northern California. Not far from Crescent City, we camped at Mill Creek in Del Norte Coast Redwood State Park.

On the advice of our camp hosts, we drove Howland Hill Road and hiked on the Nickerson Ranch Trail. This area is a UNESCO heritage site where logging has been forbidden for over 100 years. So, the trees are enormous.

Some of the areas are second growth. Stumps of first-growth trees that were logged, now stand surrounded by their offspring. Even the “babies” are huge.

Sometimes in a forest, you’ll see a very straight row of trees that has grown up from a “nurse log.” A fallen, decaying log provides a nourishing home for the next generation of seedlings to thrive.

Unlike mountains, lakes, and other sites of natural beauty, these trees are alive and growing. The experience of walking through these groves is almost spiritual. You can’t help but feel a reverance for these massive, ancient trees.

The beauty of the redwoods doesn’t end at the park boundaries. As we worked our way up the Oregon and Washington coasts, we found ourselves camping among “the giants” as we went.

Pacific Northwest

Oregon’s coast is dotted with lighthouses. Each has its own history and all were absolutely vital to their communities and seafarers.

Today, most have been decommissioned. The structures that remain still make for an interesting hop-scotch up the coast.

The town of Bandon is a popular tourist destination with seaside eateries vying for the best fish and chips and clam chowder.

Further north, we paid a repeat visit to South Beach State Park, near Newport, Oregon.

This campground has a lot going for it: hiking trails to the beach, a paved bike trail to town to visit Rogue Brewery, shady campsites with good amenities and cell service.

It’s also large and very popular, which means it comes with lots of campers and kids on skateboards, hover boards, and bikes, but that comes with the territory.

This area is known for fresh seafood and we did our part to contibute to the local economy. We bought delicious smoked oysters at Oregon Oyster Farms on Yaquuina Bay Road.

It’s Oregon’s oldest oyster farm and it processes tons of oysters. Empty shells ready for recycling pictured below.

The local clams are great, too. We bought fresh manzanita clams to steam back at our campground. Yummy.

We also stayed at several campgrounds along the coast in Washington State. Vehicle traffic is allowed on some state park beaches, which was a surprise.

As you travel further north, the big rocky coastline returns, and the traffic on the beach is just folks searching for agates.

Olympic Peninsula

Bogachiel State Park was a good jumping off point for exploring the Hoh rainforest in Olympic National Park. However, an early morning start didn’t help us escape the line of cars at the entrance gate and a two-hour wait to enter. Advice to future visitors: Arrive before 8am!

This peninsula is such a wonderfully diverse area. On the western side is the Hoh rain forest, where everything is coated with moss.

The forest runs along the Hoh River and elevations range from 400 to around 2,400 feet.

On the eastern side of the park, the mountains are tipped with snow, even in June. Hurricane Ridge is about 5,200 feet in elevation – and a good climb rewarded by a great view.

We spent a few days hiking in the area, including Independence Day.

Near Port Angeles, the Sol Duc Trail was new to us. Every bit as lovely as the Hoh trails, but without the crowds. Woodland wildflowers, singing birds, and waterfalls made for a lovely hike.

We continued around the tip of the Olympic Peninsula, enjoying beach stops like Ruby Beach, pictured here.

Our last stop in western Washington was Bayview State Park. From there, we went to Anacortes for their great Saturday Farmer’s Market. We came home with fresh mushrooms, homemade kimchi, and Rainier cherries. Local always tastes better and it’s fun to meet the vendors.

We also crossed over to Whidbey Island and drove down to Coupeville. I wanted to roll around in the lavender in front of the Lavender Wind shop. So many varieties of lavender and so deliciously fragrant!

Looking for something new, we discovered Price Sculpture Garden. It’s a relatively new and small garden on Whidbey.

Sculpture, inspired by nature, has been placed along a woodland trail. It’s well worth a stop if you’re on Whidbey.

North Cascades National Park, Chelan Valley

Traveling east on Route 20, we left the Pacific behind. Our first night out, we stayed at Klipchuck, a primitive, first-come, first-served campground in the Okanagan-Wenatchee National Forest.

Sunlight dappled through the tall trees around our campsite.

No formal amenities like electricty or a bath house with showers and flush toilets, but we spent a lovely, quiet evening in our little piece of the forest. The vault toilets, shown above, were very clean, well-maintained, and a welcome sight way out in the woods.

The next day, we drove the scenic route south, past the Chelan Dam, and ended up in Wenatchee Confluence. This confluence is where the Wenatchee and Columbia Rivers meet.

What a switch in location! This was a manicured, grassy, urban park-like setting with graceful shade trees and paved campsites.

Once you go over the Cascades, summer in eastern Washington is dry and hot. The natural vegetation is grasses and rugged plants.

Lush lawns and delicate flower gardens don’t survive out here without supplemental watering. Sprinklers seem to be everywhere: lawns, farm fields, even traffic islands in town. The park’s lawn sprinklers came on each morning with military precision.

The Apple Capital Bike Trail passed right next to our campground. We loved riding along the Columbia River.

The trail passed through interesting areas, including pocket gardens and the Oehme Sculpture Garden, and then went into town.

Our last stop in Washington state was near Moses Lake. We stayed at a small Harvest Host farm just outside of town.

Even in late afternoon, the temperatures were sizzling (in the high 90s and humid). So we checked in with our hosts, and then detoured into town and found (an air-conditioned) Mexican restaurant.

As evening arrived, the temperatures cooled a bit and we had a pleasant night. The neighbor’s curious cattle and a very vocal rooster greeted us in the morning.

A good start for a few long travel days ahead.

Montana, Wyoming, South Dakota

We zoomed across southern Montana, only stopping for quick overnights to break up the distance. Then we dropped into Wyoming and stayed at Keyhole State Park near Moorcroft.

Our plan was to visit Devil’s Tower, the national monument that was featured in the climax of the film Close Encounters of the Third Kind. The site is very impressive, even without the film reference.

In addition to being a good base for exploring, Keyhole State Park turned out to be a good camping find.

Our site in the Arch Rock loop was right on the water and we had it all to ourselves for most of our stay.

The campground marina was a short bike ride away, and the camp store had a covered deck for relaxing and enjoying the views. Nice.

Mt Rushmore

We crossed into South Dakota near Rapid City and joined the throngs of tourists visiting Mt. Rushmore. The history of its design by Gutzon Borglum and his son Lincoln is interesting.

The stories about the choice of Presidents and the construction efforts were fascinating. For example, 90% of the carving was accomplished by using dynamite, blasting away granite to reveal the shape of the President’s heads. The rangers do a great job helping to interpret the site. This is an American icon that everyone should visit.

Badlands National Park, South Dakota

The Badlands’ rock formations are stunning. What’s even more stunning, is the area’s history. This land, that looks so barren and incapable of supporting agriculture, has been inhabited by Sioux forever.

A series of Homestead Acts, the first of which was signed by Lincoln in 1867, promised land to US citizens who went west and met certain requirements within a specified number of years.

Some became farmers, some were ranchers, and only the very tenacious made it. When you look across the landscape, you can’t imagine anyone trying to build a life out here. In the end, homesteading is credited with playing a big part in settling of the West.

Like many other chapters in American history, homesteading was successful for some, but not everyone, especially the indigenous people who were pushed aside in the process. So, the history of the Badlands, like the rest of America’s history, is as complicated and layered as Badland rock.

Minnesota

The drive across Minnesota reminds you of the importantance of our agricultural regions. The typical view in mid-summer is fields of crops and hay bales waiting for pick up.

We paused for a few days in Minnesota, just to regroup and enjoy some small-town America. Worthington is quiet and pleasant. Seriously, everyone is pleasant. Coming from an urban area on the east coast, this kind of nice almost makes you suspicious, but it’s genuine.

Wisconsin

In Wisconsin, we visited Taliesin, Frank Lloyd Wright’s home and studio in Spring Green. Our guided tour offered more insight into Wright’s architectural style and his ideas.

Often called America’s Greatest Architect, Wright actually never had a degree in engineering or architecture, although he worked and apprenticed with the greats of his time.

A visit to this site helps you understand how his love for the prairie impacted his architectural sensibilities. The house is anchored to the landscape, low and unobtrusive, and motly made from local materials.

We had an interesting conversation with our guide about preservation versus reconstruction. The Foundation that runs Taliesin is dedicated to preserving Wright’s original vision and style.

To visitors, some things look like they need repair. But, repairs are only made as necessary and only to preserve, without altering, the buildings. To reconstruct various aspects with modern fixes would change the look, and likely Wright’s intent.

Madison

In Madison, we visited the Olbrich Botanical Gardens, which are excellent. The planting combinations and colorful displays show great artistry.

We also enjoyed a visit to the Dane County Farmer’s Market. On Saturday mornings, the market fills the four blocks surrounding Capitol Square in Madison.

This is America’s largest produce-only farmers market. We found great sourdough bread, along with fresh tomatoes and basil for dinner sandwiches.

And because it’s the Capitol, each corner held citizens voicing opinions, protesting, and enjoying the captive audience the market provided. People watching is always great sport.

We made a few other stops as we made our way back to Ohio. Our whirlwind roadtrip was winding down right on schedule.

Maumee Bay State Park

Back in January, we signed on to be volunteer Camp Hosts at Maumee Bay State Park for the month of August. And here we are!

The park is on Lake Erie, not far from Toledo. It’s one of the nicest parks we’ve visited in our four years of traveling.

We’re looking forward to lending a hand with its care and meeting fellow volunteers, staff, and campers. So far, so good!

More adventures await us in September. Stay tuned!