“All that is gold does not glitter, not all those who wander are lost.” J.R.R. Tolkien from The Fellowship of the Ring

March 25, 2020

We had intended to travel down The Natchez Parkway, from Nashville to Natchez. Our first few days were quiet and interesting. And peaceful. We saw very few other cars on the road.

The Trace is one of America’s oldest routes. It was used for trade and travel long before paved roads came into existence. It is woven into our country’s history as a route used by armies, and very sadly, the Trail of Tears when Indians were pushed to Oklahoma.

Meriwether Lewis Memorial

Along the way, we visited the memorial to Meriwether Lewis. He died in 1809 at an inn on this spot and is buried here. Lewis was Thomas Jefferson’s private secretary when he was recruited to lead the Lewis and Clark Expedition, often referred to as the Corps of Discovery.

The Expedition covered 8,000 miles in a two and a half year exploration of the American West. The team overcame overwhelming obstacles. Afterward, Lewis was lauded as a returning hero. The only obstacle he was never able to overcome was his own personal darkness.

There’s still some debate as to whether he was killed by robbers at the inn or if he committed suicide. Either would have been a tragic end for someone who had achieved so much by the age of 35.

Pharr Mounds

We also saw the Pharr Mounds, which is a large area (100 football field’s worth) containing nine raised burial mounds. This burial site, which was used by early Indians from 1 to 200 AD, has special archeological significance. An excavation project unearthed objects that originated elsewhere, indicating that trade and travel were well underway at that time.

Today’s Trace Parkway is a graceful serpentine road that winds diagonally across Tennessee, Alabama and Mississippi. Right now, it’s spring green with dogwoods, native azaleas, and wildflowers in bloom.

Our first night in Mississippi, we learned that campsites were beginning to close because of the Covid19 virus. Mississippi state parks were allowing RVs to camp, but all buildings and facilities were closed. No showers or restrooms. This was bad news for us. We have a composting toilet onboard, but only an outdoor shower.

We also got a phone call canceling our next reservation at the Corps of Engineers site in Fulton, MS. Time to regroup. Our exploration of the lower half of the Natchez Trace will have to wait for another time.

Our online searching revealed that all National Parks have closed, all COE sites have closed, and one by one, states were closing state parks. Where to go? We did see that Alabama was still open. We headed out early the next morning and made our way to Lake Lurleen near Tuscaloosa.

Lake Lurleen State Park

What a beautiful park! The campsites are well-spaced and almost all have lake views. Restrooms are very clean and there’s plenty of hot water for showers. There are nature trails and places to ride our bikes. So, we have hung up our traveling spurs for now and will hunker down here for a couple of weeks.

Some people imagine that we fulltime RVers wander till we find a spot we like, and then we just pull over and set up camp. In reality, it isn’t like that, especially east of the Mississippi.

There are places to boondock, but usually this involves checking in with local authorities, property owners, or registering online for forest areas. There are businesses that will allow you to stay one night (Walmart, Cabela’s) but we prefer a natural area. I’m not sure that I would sleep very well in a Cracker Barrel parking lot.

So, although it may appear to be wandering, it is full of intention and planning. Friends have watched me spend hours on our laptop checking routes, finding campgrounds, and making reservations. The time spent is worth it, though. Parks fill up, and who wants to be turned away after a long day of driving? Until now, sailing has been pretty smooth, and we will weather this storm. Luckily, we do not yet feel lost.