Snow, Wind, and Wildflowers
Early spring weather in the Southwest is a mixed bag. Days can be brilliantly sunny and warm with clear blue skies. The weather can also turn on a dime and deliver wind, rain, or snow. We spent a week in south Texas, working our way west into New Mexico, and we were quickly reminded how windy it was the last time we were here!
In several years of galavanting through Texas, our timing has always been a little off for seeing wildflowers. This time, we hit the jackpot. The roadsides were loaded with drifts of bluebonnets, Indian paintbrushes, and coreopsis.
In San Antonio, we visited the Botanical Garden, where spring flowers were mixed with cactus and palms.
As we traveled further west, the landscape morphed into sand, rock, and cactus. And the winds kicked up.
Our first planned stop in New Mexico was Carlsbad Caverns. An oversight on our part – we didn’t realize that visitors must make advance reservations. The website said, “Sold Out.” But we took a chance and went anyway. Arriving early, we were able to buy “walk-up” tickets for a midday guided tour. You can walk down 750 feet to the tour level, or as we did, opt for an quick elevator ride.
The walk through the caves is eery. The massive stalactites and stalgmites are still forming, although very slowly. Drips occasionally plop on your head and shoulders, and you pray that the power lighting the pathways doesn’t quit. Imagine the early explorers using ladders and ropes to descend into darkness, and then only having lanterns to light their way.
So, now we can say that we’ve done it. And I think “caves” has been solidly checked off our bucket list.
Moving on…we made a return visit to Alamogordo, NM. This time we visited the New Mexico Museum of Space History and International Space Hall of Fame. In relationship to the caverns, which are geologically ancient, the Space Race really was a race through time. So much was developed in a short period of time. It’s an amazing story of ingenuity, fearlessness, competition, and sky-high successes, mixed with some heartbreaking defeats. Worth the visit.
Also in Alamogordo. Who can resist a photo with the world’s largest pistachio? And free pistachio tastings?
Rocks, rocks, and more rocks
West of Las Cruces, we camped at City of Rocks State Park. A volcanic eruption, nearly 35 million years ago, left stone in the area. Subsequent weathering and erosion left gigantic granitic boulders. The campsites are tucked in between, and right up against, the rocks.
So, after two days of hiking through rocks, rocks, and more rocks, we made a day trip to Silver City. Once a booming mining town, today it’s a hotspot for artists and tourists. The town has artsy shops, galleries, restaurants, and museums. Most businesses are housed in restored historic buildings. This town has such a healthy vibe – a breath of fresh air compared to some historic towns that aren’t surviving.
We really appreciated the museum. In deciding how to tell the story of the Old West, a panel in the museum asks: “What is more important for people to be aware of: famous or significant events, or the every day lives of ordinary people?” Something to consider. Most of us know very little about the real people who were “the Old West.” This museum does an excellent job of painting an inclusive picture of Silver City’s inhabitants and their heritage.
We left “The Rocks,” to venture up into the Gila Wilderness. We visited the Gila Cliff dwellings, which we had seen previously. However, this time, we connected with a docent-led tour, and learned so much more about the Mogollon culture. These cliff-dwellers built rooms, raised families, crafted pottery, hunted, farmed, and lived here for several generations. By 1300, they had moved on, but their impression remains.
We spent a perfect evening at the nearby Gila Hot Springs Campground. A soak in the hot spring pools, a great dinner, and a quiet night next to the Gila River and hillside. What’s not to like?
In the morning, we woke to freezing rain, sleet, and a dicey, snowy drive down back out of the mountains. Such is spring in New Mexico.
Arizona
Southern Arizona brought a welcome return to warmer temperatures, sunshine, tee shirts and shorts. We stayed at a number of campgrounds, including Windy Hill on Theodore Roosevelt Lake. We had a primo lakeside campsite and, just across the road, we climbed to see more cliff dwellings at the Tonto National Monument.
This is saguaro country. The iconic plant, seen on the AZ license plate, is everywhere. This is the state plant; it’s illegal to remove one.
The inside of the saguaro is an assemblage of vertical tubes which supplies moisture to the plant. It can take 50 – 70 years for cactus to develop their first arms. Cactus with several arms are usually more than 100 years old.
This cactus, which has died, offers a glimpse into the internal configuration of its “transport system.”
Another campground that we really enjoyed is Picacho State Park, northwest of Tucson.
It’s a lovely park, with amazing views and sunsets. It’s beautifully maintained, with nice places to hike and relax.
We spent the last few days of April with our friends Doug and Katie in Prescott, AZ. We had a terrific time catching up. Lots of conversation and great food! Thanks for your hospitality and friendship!
Now it’s off to Texas to see the Eclipse. We hope!