December 2020

After several months of repairs following hurricane season, Fort Pickens campground reopened. We were surprised that the campground was only partially filled. After so much hullabaloo about reopening, we thought it would be packed. I guess the word about reopening was slow to be believed.

This was one of the first places we camped last year, and it remains a top pick. The campsites are kind of close together, but the location is stellar. The beach is a short walk along a boardwalk through the barrier dunes. The grasses, trees, and vegetation are stressed and grizzled from wind and storms. Against the white sands, it almost looks like a moonscape.

The beach sand is fine, white and cool underfoot, even on hot days. It squeaks when you walk on it, like sneakers on a basketball court. The water takes on the personality of the day – pale aqua on calm days, dark green or navy blue when storms are in the air.

The drive to the campground twists through the long, narrow stretch of Santa Rosa Island, about five miles beyond the Ranger Station entrance. At places, the road is just few feet from the Gulf’s waves, so it frequently floods during storms. Historic Fort Pickens is all the way at the end of the island, at its tip, where the waters of Pensacola Bay and the Gulf of Mexico swirl together.

It’s one of the most scenic drives ever, and you sense its vulnerability along with its beauty.

We were lucky to connect with our brother-in-law Steve Paynter and camp together for a few days.

Steve has a Casita, a small travel trailer, which he has outfitted with as many solar panels as the roof will hold and customized touches that make it uniquely his. It was fun to catch up and indulge in fresh oysters at Peg Leg Pete’s Oyster Bar.

Mobile, Alabama

Mobile is an easy day trip from Florida’s Panhandle. Steve wanted to go see the neighborhood where he was born. So, we hopped in his car and made the drive. After so many years, the neighborhood wasn’t in the best of shape, but Steve took photos and was able to check off another item on his travel bucket list.

While there, we decided to go see Africatown, an historic community in Mobile. It was formed by a group of Africans who, in 1860, were in the last known illegal shipment of slaves to the United States. The import of slaves had been illegal since 1808, but illegal trading continued, especially near port cities.

The Clotilda, the ship that had been used to transport these slaves, was discovered in May 2019, in the Mobile River. After unloading its cargo of slaves, the ship had been set on fire, and scuttled up river to hide the evidence of its crime.

We went to the Old Plateau Cemetery, where many residents of Africatown are buried. We walked the grounds, reading grave headstones as we went.

We found the grave marker for Cudjoe Lewis who lived until 1935 and was long considered to be the last survivor of the slaves brought on the Clotilda. It’s now known that two others may have lived longer. Records are challenging to trace because families were divided by slave sales and names were often changed.

At one time, Africatown had 12,000 residents. Today, that number is about 2,000, and 100 of them are believed to be direct descendants of the Clotilda slaves. Many more are scattered across the country.

Descendants of the 35 founders of Africatown continue to press to make sure this history is understood and remembered. The discovery of the Clotilda gives credence to the narrative that has been passed down through generations.

Along our travels, we often stop to explore historic sites. Sometimes, these visits are a mix of uplifting and poignant, as this one was. History isn’t always pretty, but it’s important not to forget its tragedies and injustices.

We hope that this community is able to secure the funding needed to rebuild its welcome center and share this history with future generations.

Bellingrath Gardens, Theodore, AL

On another day trip, John and I went to Bellingrath Gardens, not far from Mobile. Bellingrath was the home of Walter and Bessie Bellingrath. Walter took over ownership of Coca-Cola Bottling Company in 1934, and the rest, as they say, is history.

Like Pierre and Alice DuPont, the Bellingraths were inspired by gardens they saw on European adventures. What was originally a fish camp on the Fowl River, was enlarged and developed over the years into a grand estate.

We walked the gardens, which were decked out with holiday vignettes and miles of lights for their night time Christmas display.

I still can’t quite mentally process winter in the South, where poinsettias are planted and blooming outdoors alongside impatiens and marigolds.

We visited late in afternoon, in that time photographers call the “golden hour,” when the sun is low in the sky and warm light saturates the landscape. We walked a path that took us through the gardens, down past the river boathouse, and out a boardwalk into the bayou. This area, with waterfowl and great interpretive signage was a nice contrast to the more formal gardens.

A winter visit was lovely. These gardens must be truly fabulous in the spring when all the azaleas are in bloom. What a gift that the Bellingraths chose to open the gardens and share this with the public.